Gourmet Pyrenees

Our gastronomic horseback adventure begins in the picturesque village of Anciles, home to Anima Equi. This small locality is one of the architectural gems of the Pyrenees due to its abundance of medieval noble houses. From here, we will ride into the valley floor, following the path of old bridle trails once used by travelers before the advent of motor vehicles. The tranquility of the Linsoles reservoir area, near the village of Eriste, will help us reconnect with the wild. We will then pass by the Sanctuary of Guayente, built in the Middle Ages. This building hosts a prestigious hospitality school, where some of the chefs of the restaurants on our ride were trained. On horseback, we will cross the village of Sahún, famous for its historic "Fallas", a pre-Christian festival declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Next, we will enter the mixed forest with its beautiful variety of tree species: ash, trembling aspen, oak, and wild cherry. Upon exiting, we’ll cross the meadows surrounding the picturesque village of Chía, renowned for the quality of its potatoes or "trunfes" (in patués), celebrated in a gastronomic fair every November. Chía is also known for its historic role in rural migration to African colonies, as depicted in Luz Gabás’ bestselling novel Palm Trees in the Snow. The highlight of this day will be lunch at Chongastán, a restaurant that masterfully blends traditional Aragonese cuisine with sustainable practices and local products.

On this second day, as riders are now more comfortable with the horses and the terrain, we’ll take on a slightly more active ride: a horseback ascent to the Ardonés waterfall, a site of great natural beauty. We’ll leave from Anciles and pass by its cemetery, which features an interesting mausoleum. Then we begin our climb along the traditional bridle path from Anciles to Cerler, observing the gradual transition from valley meadows to the lush vegetation of the mixed forest. This ride will take us to Cerler, one of the highest villages in the Aragonese Pyrenees (1,540 m), where we will visit the hermitage of San Pedro Mártir, the local patron saint. This place of spiritual retreat holds great cultural and religious value, symbolizing the connection between the valley's spiritual heritage and its natural environment. It's also a key point on the Ride of the Three Waterfalls, from where we will head to the spectacular Ardonés waterfall. We’ll end the ride with a short climb to a viewpoint in the Ampriu Valley, offering breathtaking views of the peaks of Ixeias, Tuca del Mon, Dalliu of the Estós Valley, and El Posets, the second-highest peak in the Pyrenees (3,375 m).

On our third day, we ride towards the valley’s end, heading in the direction of France along a ride that countless travelers have followed over the centuries—moved by love, work, or the turmoil of war. A path full of memory, echoed in literature such as Luz Gabás’ Like Fire in the Ice, where this setting takes center stage. We depart from Anciles and ride into Benasque, the valley’s most important town, with its grey stone buildings and slate roofs. There, we’ll spot the remains of an old castle, a witness to bygone eras. From this point, we head north toward France, following the winding course of the Ésera River, which we’ll cross several times. In some areas, the rocks take on a surprising reddish hue due to iron oxide from a nearby tributary. The journey continues upstream past the Pasonuevo reservoir and into the broad plain of Senarta, eventually reaching El Acapament. Along the way, we’ll stop at the ruins of an old foundation intended to be a customs post, built by the Spanish monarchy to regulate the trade of horses and mules to France—though it was never completed due to local opposition. Finally, we’ll reach the plains of Turpí, at the foot of the former Benasque thermal baths. Surrounded by natural splendor, we’ll enjoy a traditional mountain lunch at the cozy Hotel Turpí, breathing in the pure air and savoring the authentic flavors of the Pyrenees.

On our final day, we will ride to a place of singular beauty: la selba, another mixed forest that blends the richness of deciduous and evergreen species into a colorful mosaic that changes with the seasons. Along the way, we will pass by the Conques estate, a grand manor crowned by a tower. Its architecture shows clear French influence: a four-pitched roof of slate tiles, colorful eaves, and wrought iron balconies evoke a style foreign to local tradition, reflecting the sophisticated charm of architecture from across the Pyrenees. On the same estate stands the Romanesque hermitage of San Esteban de Conques, a Lombard-style gem dating back to 1053. We’ll continue ascending on horseback along forest tracks and old bridle paths until reaching a small mountain pass that opens new vistas. From there, we’ll head to the hermitage of San Saturnino, perched on the side of the Castellaso promontory. The view from here is stunning, with sweeping panoramas of Villanova and Eresué. Nearby, we’ll also see another Romanesque church, contemporary with San Esteban de Conques, blending harmoniously into its natural setting. We’ll end our descent at the Casa Arcas restaurant near Villanova, bringing to a close this journey through the valley’s gastronomy, history, architecture, and living nature.